The coffee sniffers – how Prussia controlled coffee

During the reign of Frederick the Great, beer, tobacco, and coffee were among the most popular consumer goods. After the Seven Years' War, money was scarce, and Prussia's mercantilist policies focused heavily on domestic production. Spending money abroad was considered detrimental—especially on luxury goods. Beer was brewed locally, tobacco cultivation was limited in Prussia, and coffee, still relatively new at the time, presented challenges.

From beer soup to coffee mush

In the past, beer soup simmered away on almost every stove. It consisted of beer – which even children drank back then – bread, grain, and all sorts of other ingredients. When coffee beans finally reached poorer segments of the population, the new ingredient spread rapidly. The invigorating effect of coffee transformed the familiar beer soup into the new "coffee porridge" and contributed to a greater sense of well-being.

The breweries and local malt coffee producers soon complained of massive losses in revenue due to the new "workers' coke." Since coffee could not be grown in Germany, Frederick the Great issued an import ban on roasted coffee. While the state-run coffee roastery continued to supply the king, the prices were unaffordable for the general population.

The birth of coffee sniffers

The prohibition gave rise to a new profession: the coffee sniffer, also known as a coffee smeller. They were mostly disabled and well-paid to detect the scent of roasted coffee. Coffee sniffers were allowed to enter houses at any time—literally even "feel and smell" ladies—and track down illegal roasters. In 1781, the import of raw coffee was also banned; the sniffers received high commissions for their discoveries.

Forbidden does not mean forgotten

Despite all measures, coffee smuggling grew uncontrollably. Frederick's successor realized that the ban was resulting in enormous losses in tax revenue. He finally lifted the ban and introduced import taxes – thus making coffeehouse visits legal again.